AA GILL WAS known for his sharp wit and brutal restaurant reviews. Writing for The Sunday Times, he once declared Lucio “the latest in a long line of doomed restaurants” at its west London site. He dismissed the room as dull, the food forgettable, and the service abysmal—seven waiters who couldn’t listen, remember, or communicate. Expensive without charm, he predicted it was just another victim waiting for burial in the basement.
Yet, twenty years later, Lucio has proved him wrong. Not only has it survived, but it has thrived, and most nights, it is bustling with well-heeled diners.
I’m not sure why it took me 15 years to visit Lucio’s on Fulham Road in Chelsea. Perhaps it was the sight of Chelsea FC managers and players arriving and leaving that once made it feel out of reach.
Lucio’s is a family-run restaurant founded by Lucio Altana, formerly the manager of San Lorenzo during its heyday as a celebrity hotspot. The walls of the horseshoe-shaped dining room are adorned with iconic photographs by British photographer Terry O’Neill, adding to its charm.
The menu focuses on classic Italian staples, combining the best fresh local produce with high-quality Italian ingredients for authentic flavours. The wine list is reasonably priced and varied, and I was particularly impressed when I asked for a recommendation—not only was it delicious, but it was also fairly priced, avoiding the all-too-common upsell. And yes, a light red pairs surprisingly well with fish.
Service, provided by Lucio and his two sons, is warm, knowledgeable, and polished, adding a personal touch. Arriving early, I had my choice of tables and opted for a seat with a view of fellow diners, many of whom appeared to be regulars with their usual tables. That, surely, is a sign of a great restaurant—one that keeps guests coming back time and time again.
With excellent food and an ever-changing menu, I will certainly continue returning.
